Freeman House Restoration:From Wallpaper to Plaster
When I purchased the Freeman House, I knew I wasn’t just buying a home—I was taking on a long-term restoration project.
Built in 1908 by a local pharmacist, the Roscius S. and Lydia R. Freeman House sits at the intersection of several architectural styles: Queen Anne, Shingle Style, and Colonial Revival. Its sweeping rooflines, irregular footprint, and original woodwork have survived more than a century. My goal over the next five to seven years is to restore the home thoughtfully and eventually operate it as a traditional bed and breakfast.
This upstairs bedroom is my starting point—my “practice room.” It was once the primary bedroom (before the addition of a sleeping porch to deal with summer heat), and like much of the house, it had been covered in layers rather than restored.
This project wasn’t about making it perfect. It was about learning how to do it right.
Note: This post may contain affiliate links to products and tools I use in the Freeman House restoration. You can read the full disclosure here.
Initial Conditions
The room had:
Three layers of wallpaper on the walls
Wallpaper applied to the ceiling
No finished plaster surface beneath—just base plaster
Loose plaster in several areas
Cracks and small holes
One larger section (~1’ x 1’) where plaster was gone but the lath remained
Deterioration around window edges contributing to drafts
The plaster itself was original, reinforced with horsehair, and still largely intact. The goal was to preserve and stabilize, not replace.
Safety Considerations
Before starting, I evaluated potential risks typical in older homes:
Lead: No paint layers were present on the plaster in this room, reducing risk during sanding.
Asbestos: The home predates widespread asbestos use, and no mid-century materials (like textured ceilings or vinyl tile) were present in this space.
Silica: Primary concern during sanding of plaster and joint compound.
VOCs: Considered during use of shellac-based primer.
Precautions taken:
N95 respirator during sanding and dust-producing work
Shop vac with filter and dust bag
Thorough vacuuming between stages
No active HVAC returns in the room
Clothing changes after heavy dust exposure
Latex gloves during wallpaper removal
Ventilation and OV/P100 respirator when applying shellac primer
The approach was simple: control dust, limit exposure, and work clean.
Step 1: Removing the Past
Wallpaper removal was the first real test.
Using a steam cleaner and wallpaper remover, I softened the layers and removed them with a 6” knife. I experimented with scoring but found it slowed me down more than it helped in this case.
For adhesive residue, I tried both a commercial remover and a vinegar/water mix. Both worked about the same.
Some glue and paper remnants remained—but rather than chase perfection here, I focused on preparing the surface for sealing.
Lesson learned: next time, better floor protection around trim.
Step 2: Stabilizing the Plaster
Loose plaster was secured using plaster washers and screws, spaced roughly 6–12 inches apart until movement stopped.
These were then covered with USG Easy Sand 45, a setting-type compound chosen for its:
Strength
Minimal shrinkage
Ability to build thickness
Chemical cure (rather than air drying)
This step was about structure, not appearance.
Step 3: Rebuilding Missing Areas
Where plaster was completely missing, I rebuilt in layers:
Rekeyed into the lath with Easy Sand 45
Built thickness with a second pass
Embedded a metal mesh patch
Feathered edges into surrounding plaster
This created a stable base tied into the original wall.
Step 4: Cracks and Small Repairs
Cracks were stabilized with:
Plaster washers (if movement was present)
Fiber mesh tape
Easy Sand 45
Small holes were filled directly.
Again, the focus was long-term stability, not surface finish.
Step 5: Surface Prep
After repairs:
Light sanding with 220 grit
Full vacuum
Damp microfiber wipe
The goal wasn’t perfection—it was readiness.
Step 6: Sealing the Surface
I used Zinsser BIN (shellac-based primer) before skim coating.
This decision was critical.
BIN was chosen to:
Seal remaining wallpaper glue
Prevent adhesion issues
Create a uniform surface
This step essentially reset the wall.
From here, the surface behaved much more predictably—similar to drywall in terms of finishing, even though the substrate remained original plaster.
Step 7: First Skim Coat (Leveling)
Using USG All Purpose joint compound, slightly thinned:
Applied via roller
Flattened with a 12” knife
This was a build coat (~1–2mm), intended to unify the surface.
All Purpose was chosen for its stronger binder and better adhesion.
This stage was the hardest—especially around corners, trim, and windows.
Step 8: Sand and Reset
Light sanding, vacuum, wipe.
Repeat the discipline.
Step 9: Second Skim Coat (Refinement)
Using USG Plus 3, applied thinner:
Smaller sections (faster drying)
Strong lighting at an angle to reveal imperfections
This coat focused on refinement:
Filling blade marks
Addressing minor depressions
Creating a consistent surface
Plus 3 was chosen for its workability and easier sanding.
Step 10: Final Sanding
A sanding sponge worked best—rigid sanding blocks left visible lines, especially on the ceiling.
This step was about restraint:
Smooth, not perfect.
Step 11: Final Primer
I applied Zinsser 123, which provided:
Better build than PVA
Good adhesion
More uniform appearance
This was the moment everything came together.
The walls finally looked intentional.
Step 12: Paint
Two coats of a warm off-white (Bavarian Cream) on the walls.
One coat on the ceiling—for now.
The finish isn’t perfect.
But it’s solid, clean, and consistent.
Reflections
This room taught me more than I expected.
Plaster can be repaired—not replaced
Product choice matters more than most advice suggests
“Treat it like drywall” is only partially true
Light reveals everything
Technique improves quickly with repetition
I chose not to remove trim this time. When I do, I’ll restore it properly and address gaps around windows and doors more thoroughly.
There are still imperfections.
That’s part of the process.
What Comes Next
Spot corrections where needed
Ceiling finish (possibly texture or wallpaper)
Window sealing improvements
Hardwood floor restoration
And then—on to the next room.
Final Thought
This wasn’t about getting it perfect.
It was about learning how to work with a 100+ year old house instead of against it.
If it holds—no cracking, no peeling, no discoloration—then this becomes the baseline method for the rest of the Freeman House.
If not?
I’ll learn from it and do better in the next room.
Either way, the house moves forward.
If you want, I can help you turn future posts into a consistent “Freeman House Journal” series — this is exactly the kind of content that builds long-term interest (and eventually, bookings).
Supply and Equipment List
Plaster Repair & Patching
USG Easy Sand 45 (setting-type joint compound)
Fiber mesh tape
Plaster washers
1-1/4” drywall screws
Skim Coating
Primers
Application Tools
12” drywall knife
6” drywall knife
4” taping knife
Hawk
Paint roller frame
1/2” nap roller covers
Small trim roller (for tight spaces)
Sanding & Surface Prep
220 grit sanding sponges
Microfiber cloths
Spray bottle (for light edge work if needed)
Dust Control & Cleanup
Drop cloths / floor protection
Safety Equipment
N95 respirator
P100 / Organic Vapor respirator (for shellac primer)
Safety glasses
Nitrile or latex gloves
